Friday, April 15, 2011
scary/fearful moment
One scary moment that comes to mind happened when i was a freshman in high school. though it was the weekend before finals, i was going with my family to los angeles to stay with my aunt and uncle and throw a surprise birthday dinner for my grandma one night. that friday night i had been intrigued and convinced by the idea of going surfing with my uncle the following morning. having taken numerous surf lessons before but never actually doing it for longer than a week at a time, i was excited yet timid and nervous all at the same time. we left very early, like 6 am, in my uncles beat up jeep-forerunner-ish type thing. wearing my aunts wetsuit and holding on to her board, both a bit too big for me, i rushed into the water. being a person of rather tiny proportions, paddling out has never been a simple task and has always taken me a very long time. i'm too small to push the board under the oncoming wave, and too light to roll over with it (my arms being too short to grab around the board in the first place). anyway, once i get past the break i need to take a breather to get at least some of my energy back. my uncle, however, let me do no such thing. he pushed me on every wave that came, decent or not. when i asked him if he typically surfed at sunset beach, he replied smugly, "let's just say i surf up shore," implying that up shore was where the experts surfed. he told me to look around at how no one out there was actually catching any waves - they all just paddled, paddled, paddled as if they were about to...and then just pulled back out of the wave. observing the surrounding surfers, i determined he was right...but also that he was one of those surfers not catching any waves. my uncle continued to push me on wave after wave after wave. some i caught, some i did not, and some i caught but wiped out; still i paddled my heart out back to the spot where you wait for waves again and again. the last wave i rode that day was big and i wiped out on it. i was actually caught in a swell of 3 huge waves, little did i know seeing as i was pulled under for long periods of time. through the passing of those 3 waves, although i covered my head like you're supposed to, my board hit me on the head 3 times. i struggled and struggled and finally managed to make it to shore after like 15 minutes of trying to. i sat there with an angry face as i watched my uncle still out in the distance finally start to come towards shore. he asked me if i was okay and i told him i was fine, unable to feel anything because of the cold water. when we got to the car he was like "let's take a look...oh yep you're bleeding." seeing as he is normally quite the jokester, i didn't believe him until he said, "yea it is, look!" with that he swabbed my wound with two fingers, taking no caution to be careful at all. then i saw he was right, it was very bloody and all of a sudden it was trickling down my face. in the car on the way to his house, i went into shock and became faint. i ended up having to go get 5 stitches which was gross and painful. the scary part was being under the water for so long - not the first time that's happened but definitely the longest. i have gone surfing since as well as swam in the ocean, so i don't think it's had a lifelong toll on my activities, though i am always cautious and a bit nervous. anyway, the conclusion of the story is that i failed my history final that monday, the worst out of the whole class :/ whomp whomp
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